Dios Mio!

*Disclaimer: This might be more detail than you wanted, but this blog is also our diary, so read what you want! Also, the internet here is so slow that we can´t upload pictures...restated, be thankful I can´t upload the 76 pictures I took in Corcovado!

So much has happened over the last few days, I think we left off at kayaking. We took a sunset tour with another couple through the mangroves and it was beautiful! We had to squeeze our kayaks through little spaces and we even endured the typical afternoon monsoon! The adventures in Osa were just beginning...

That night we had dinner with Osa Mike - our guide for the next three days. Picture Crocodile Dundee but with a british accent instead. This guy even carried a machette! He told us stories about Corcovado and scared me so much I completely lost my appetite! So the next morning we left Puerto Jimenez for Carate on a 2 hour 'colectivo taxi' - this again was another sight to see! Its basically a pickup truck with bars above and around the bed with two benches on either side - basically a death mobile. But it was really interesting to see the culture more up close - ticos are hilarious and notoriously friendly!

Our mission today was to make it to the Sirena Ranger Station 22 kilometers inside the Corcovado - should be about an 8 hour hike. There were places just inside the park that many tourists go to see monkeys, etc...not us...we were doing the full monty! Picture going to Yosemite and only seeing the valley and surrounding areas - and then imagine going into the back country where no one ever goes. So the hike varies between trail (in the jungle) and beach walking. Every step of the jungle trail I was worried about stepping on a poisonous snake, getting bit by a spider, or just even slipping over the trechorous trail. And every step of the beach hike was through soft, deep sand, so it felt like each step required the effort of two. You're getting my drift...we are tired!! But we saw lots and lots of wildlife! We made a list and it covers about 50 mammals, reptiles and birds. When people say this is the last virgin rain forest of Costa Rica, they're not kidding!

The Sirena Ranger Station was befitting for the setting, aka, it left a lot to be desired in the way of comfort. We slept in bunks with mosquito nets and were served meals in a dining hall where we met a group of students from Rice. There was a big wraparound porch from which you could see macaws fly by, monkeys playing in the trees, etc at any given moment. Sleep was hard to come by because of the heat and humidity (nothing ever drys here!) But the next day we headed out in search of crocodiles and sharks feeding in the Rio Sirena estuary. And boy were we lucky! A bull shark was getting him some good fishing in! We hiked around in search of cats & peccaries (wild boars that are very aggressive with humans!) but to no avail. ALL of the other groups we had passed had seen the puma that likes to stalk humans at the Rio Claro and one group ran from 2 different groups of peccaries...not us...but not say that I´m too bummed that we didn´t have to deal with that!

After dinner we went for a night hike, armed with only 3 measley flahlights (not exactly going to fend off a Jag if you ask me)...it was crazy scary. It gets soooo dark here! The frogs and bugs are so loud, its very eery crawling through a jungle looking for creepy crawlies...picture a sci fi movie! But we made it back and headed to bed.

Well before dawn even arrived (and thus the loud, obnoxious howler monkeys) we were greeted by a little sickness. Thats right, they say the water is potable here, but I guess our bodies disagreed! Not exactly the way you want to get prepared for the same 22km hike that almost wiped you out before. But nonetheless, we were on our way. The tides were against us this day, literally...it was high tide when we had to cross the river. Our trusty guide Mike popped open his binocs and assured us that the crocs were no more than 2 meters and with the three of us banded together in waist high water, we should be ok. Great right! So, although terrified, we did make it through unscathed! Thank goodness!

So now we were on the beach part of the hike and the tides were screwing us again. We had to get around a point in order to begin Crucifixion Beach (oh joy!)...but there was no sand like last time, due to the tide. So we had to climb over the side of the cliff in order to begin our walk down ths now soft sanded beach. I think you´re getting my drift again, we are really wasting some undue energy on this! But we made it, rested, and saw more wildlife on our return hike through the jungle. Its funny how the first time you see coatis or agoutes you are so excited, but the tenth time you just say cool and keep going. So about three quarters of the way out, Liz began to get overheated, I guess the dehydration really caught up with her. A rejuvenating dip in a cold stream and some rehydration salts had her back in no time. Poor Brian had our pack on his back and was considering leaving it all behind! By this point we´re joking between ourselves that this is our Everest!

It was well worth it though, and as we reread this blog we realize that words nor pictures can really do it justice. It was an amazing experience that brought us closer to adventure, risk, and the wild than either of us had ever been before. We were exhausted and ready to get a hot shower and a nice bed.